Saturday 21 June 2014

Beijing 北京


"Not all those who wander are lost" ~ Tolkien

I am not even sure where to begin with Beijing. It's so different to Shanghai, not cosmopolitan at all, but equally as amazing. I've been to Beijing 11 times, being just a two hour flight from Shanghai it's an ideal break from the hustle and bustle of city life! The majority of these photos are taken from when I went there in 2010, my best friend Tasha and I spent a bit of time travelling around, so she features in some of these photos!

Beijing is home to so many incredible sights; from the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, to the Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and not forgetting the breathtaking Great Wall of China!

Jinshanling, Great Wall of China

Beijing, formerly known as Peking, is the capital of the People's Republic of China and has a population of over 20,000,000. It is well known that Beijing hosted the 2002 Olympics, and it's still possible to go and visit all of the venues! (I haven't done this but I know you can).

So where should you stay?

I've stayed in a few different places around Beijing, the Capital Hotel is located a 15 minute walk from Tiananmen Square. It has two tower blocks and a fantastic breakfast, it's a bit of a splurge but nothing compared to the more centrally located hotels. To get around the sites of Beijing, it's necessary to get to grips with the tube. The traffic is horrendous so takes about 5 times longer to get a taxi anywhere! The tube is so cheap! The last time I was there, 2012 it cost 2 RMB (~20p) to go from any stop to any stop, a standard fare, and you can get anywhere!

A cheaper alternative is Templeside Hostel, located in a hutong in the centre of town. It's great here, my friend Tasha and I stayed here for a few nights. We also took full advantage of the fantastic affordable cooking here and great breakfast! We also booked a trip to the Great Wall through this hostel, leaving at 530am we travelled to the Jinshanling section of the Great Wall (my favourite and quietest place to visit). It cost £24 and included breakfast and lunch and travel to and from the wall (about a two and a half hour drive!)

Black pepper beef, garlic broccoli, fried rice...

The central courtyard
Standard twin room
Entrance to the Hostel

For a bit of a splurge there's always The Emporer Hotel located with a fantastic view over the Forbidden City. Even if you don't decide to stay here, the rooftop bar is a beautiful place to watch the sunset over the temple whilst sipping on a nice cocktail or cold glass of wine!

If you're sat looking at a travel book of China (my recommendation is always the Rough Guide to any country), contemplating what to do in Beijing, it can get a little overwhelming! There is certainly no shortage of things to keep you occupied - here is my list of the top 5 things to see:

The Temple of Heaven

Sometimes known as the Altar of Heaven, and dating back to the 15th Century, it was frequented  by the Emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties for annual ceremonies of prayer to Heaven for good harvest. It is a collection of religious buildings (nominally Taoist)  spread over an area of 2.73 km².



Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

If you are going to take the tube there, you will enter through the East Gate, and get off at Tiantandongmen Station on subway line 5. As with most temples, there is a small fee to get in, well worth it though! If you are a student, I highly recommend taking your student card - although it isn't accepted everywhere it's certainly worth trying! (Who doesn't like to save money!)

The Summer Palace

It can be described best as a 'haven to escape the summer heat'. The Pinyin for The Summer Palace is 'Yihe Yuan' translating in English to the Garden of Nurtured Harmony; covering an area of nearly three square km, the vast majority of that is overtaken by Kunming Lake. The central focus of the park is Longevity Hill, standing at about 60m high it is home to a number of beautiful buildings, such as the Cloud-Dispelling Hall, The Temple of Buddhist Virtue and the Sea of Wisdom Temple. I highly suggest paying the extra 10 RMB (2012) to climb up the hill, as the views from the top are spectacular. 

I have to apologise as the photos from the Summer Palace are not mine, due to poor visibility when I have visited - the photos I have do not do it justice!

http://wanderingshadowseeker.wordpress.com
http://www.chinatravelcompass.com/beijing
www.sacu.org
Confucius and Lama Temple

The Confucius and Buddhist Lama temple are conveniently located opposite each other and can easily be accessed from Yonghegong Station on line 5 of the tube. Built in 1302, the Confucian Temple in Beijing is the second largest in China. It contains four main courtyards and, in my opinion, there is no better place to get a real feel of the culture. Although not entirely escaping the hoards of tourists who seemingly accumulate at famous landmarks such as Tiananmen Square, it is significantly quieter in this area. I like to just sit on one of the walls and people watch - it's just so relaxing watching everyone go about their daily prayers. 

The Lamasery was built considerably later in 1694 during the Qing Dynasty, and was originally built as the residence of Emporer Yongzheng but in 1744 officially became the centre of Lama administration. The entrance fee is about 25 RMB (2012) similar to that of the Confucian Temple. The main building is called the Hall of Harmony and Peace, or Yonghegong in Pinyin (note this is the same as the station name!) and is home to three large bronze buddhas. Buddha statues usually come in sets of three, this is due to their representation of past, present and future. 







The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square

I don't know anyone who hasn't heard of this place, the sheer size of it is overwhelming. Tiananmen Square has a somewhat more disturbing reason for it's fame. The 1989 Democracy Movement is more commonly known nowadays as the Tiananmen Square Massacre.

However, on a more positive note, I shall leave you to read of this tragedy on your own if it is of interest to you. The giant Tiananmen Square acts as a entrance gate to The Forbidden City. For over 500 years, this masterpiece of architecture was home to many Emperors and their households - and was known as the Imperial Palace from the Ming dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty

Built in 1406, the city comprises of nearly 1000 buildings and halls and covers an expanse of 180 acres. The City is surrounded by an 8 metre high wall and a 6 metre deep 'moat', with towers at each corner. The Palace is traditionally split into two areas, the outer and inner courts. The Inner court was most commonly used as the residential area of the Emperor, whereas the outer areas were more commonly utilised for ceremonial acts. If you are interested in the symbolism of the colours included in the design of Halls, I suggest taking a look at the link I have included.

I recommend entering via the South Gate, passing through Tiananmen Square first then entering the city. Not only does this make more sense chronology-wise, but it's also, in my opinion, considerably easier - otherwise you'll be fighting with every man and his fish against the crowds of Chinese who are stampeding in the opposite direction! Also, if you exit via the North Gate, you can end with an easy(ish) saunter up the hill in Beihai Park  for some beautiful views.

Entrance Gate from Tiananmen Square



The Outer Palace Walls

View from Beihai Park

The Great Wall of China

Now when they say 'great' they mean GREAT! I can't stress enough how incredible a feat of engineering this is. When I first heard of the Wall, I imagined a wall of significant enough importance, following gently rolling hills...how wrong I was. The sheers inclines and drops this masterpiece follows is jaw-dropping - it literally follows the mountain outlines! 

On my first visit, I went to the tourist trap that is Badaling - and I must admit, I regret that this was my first impression of the Wall. Overcrowded with tourists and touts, you can't escape it. You're stuck in a one way traffic jam all along, until you get to the other end, where there is a cruel make-shift zoo - ultimately a dried up pit with a few disheveled looking sun-bears and people throwing things at them, not nice!

If you want the majestic picture of the Wall, you need to be a little more adventurous. My favourite place by far is Jinshanling (the Simitai section has been closed for a while now - I'm not sure if it has reopened or not yet). We booked our trip through our Templeside Deluxe Hutong House Hostel, and took route 3 [though it seems to have gone up a little now - I can still say that it's well worth the price, considering it includes entrance fee!] having been before, I knew what to expect view wise - but I took private transport last time so knew this would be an adventure for us both!

At about 5am we both woke up for an early morning set off! We had already been to the small shop around the corner from the Hostel to get some supplies for breakfast, yet to our surprise we hopped onto the minibus and breakfast was provided! Now, one thing you need to know about China, is although you may start off in a minibus - it doesn't always end up you staying on the minibus! Quite often they are in cohorts with other companies who pick you up and bung you all onto one big coach to save money - it's a pain in the ass, and a bit worrying the first time it happens but it's nothing to worry about (It's happened quite a lot to my family!) Though I will say always let your hotel know where you are going and have a contact phone number, in this case as the tour was booked through the hostel we had nothing to worry about! Just mind your kneecaps on the buses! After a few very sleepy hours we finally arrived at Jinshanling - wow! There's a rather steep cable car up to the top, it's not really for the faint hearted - but well worth it! We walked roughly 12km, which although it doesn't sound too far - on that terrain and heat it is certainly far enough, you certainly enjoy your lunch back down at the bottom!






Nothing like chilling with a cold beer!









Wednesday 11 June 2014

Shanghai

For a lot of people, China can seem like a somewhat intimidating place. I know it certainly was for me before I moved there, it was somewhere I had only dreamed of visiting, and thought it would be a long while before I actually got to visit there!

I have travelled quite extensively in China, so I think it's a good idea to break it down into the major areas. This blog will focus mainly on Shanghai - though I'm sure I'll somehow entwine other places of interest in there too!


The skyline of Pudong (located on the east side of the Huangpu River) is breath taking. Considering in the early 90s this area was mostly farms and countryside, the development over the last two decades or so is absolutely phenomenal. In the photo above, the tall building to the left is called the Oriental Pearl Tower, with the Jinmao Tower (not visible in this particular picture), followed by the bottle-opener  SWFC  and the newest Shanghai Tower towering in at 632 m.  The latter three forming the world's tallest adjacent sky scrapers.


There are dozens of temples within Shanghai; but my favourite has to be the Confucius Temple (Wen Miao 文庙) . It's not 'off the beaten track' so to speak, but it's certainly one of the quietest - and to me the most beautiful.

It costs around 10 or 15 RMB to enter - discounted for students. On the trees outside the temple you can write your wishes and dreams on a Confucius tag and tie it to the tree.





The Jade Buddha Temple is a tranquil place, perfect to escape the hustle and bustle of Shanghai City Life. It's 20 RMB to enter (2013) and you have to opportunity to buy some food to feed the Koi in the pond to the rear of the temple (note: prepare to get wet - some of these fish are huge, and always hungry)






The YuYuan Gardens and Bazaar is one of the most popular attractions in Shanghai. With the bustling bazaar surrounding the gardens, it gives you a real feel for Shanghai. The many shops will not only leave you penniless (in my case) but will also ensure you appreciate the tranquility of the gardens even more so. The entrance fee is roughly 40 RMB but is well worth it. It's nice to spend an afternoon wandering around the rockeries but it's easy to get lost so make sure you plan a route before you get in there, or at least have a guide book! The teahouse just outside of the gardens is reached via a zig-zag bridge; this is due to early belief that evil spirits couldn't turn corners so kept them protected inside the house.




It really depends how much time you have in Shanghai. I lived there for nearly two years and that still wasn't enough for me, but for a flying three/four days there is plenty to do! There is also Longhua Temple and Pagoda, and Jing An Temple (the most popular) yet for me the latter is disappointing. Surrounded by billboards advertising Tiffany's and food restaurants, just somehow ruins the ambiance.

This brings me to my next big list...food. A crucial thing in my life. I live to eat, not eat to live. I LOVE trying new foods, and will never say no to trying something for the first time (maybe the second time - abalone for me was a big no no). So here is my extensive list of my favourite eateries in Shanghai.

  • The Fat Olive -   a great chilled place to have some mezzes, cold wine and a great view! I'm not going to lie, it's not the cheapest of places, but also nowhere near the most expensive. For me, the combination of delicious food, cold wine and spectacular view ranks this place among the highest in Shanghai.



  • Lost Heaven - now I've only been to the Gaoyou Lu branch - but I've been there uncountable times. The food is to die for, Yunnan style. The crab cakes, spring rolls, spicy beef salad, the fish oh my lord I could go on forever. I cannot fault this place in any way. The bar downstairs is quirky yet modern, and their cocktails are some of the best I've ever had (try the margarita!).

  • M on the Bund - this is the most expensive restaurant on the list. But the views, the food and the wine are exceptional. Located on the Puxi side of the river, on the Bund, the views of an evening in particular are second to none. I always claim I'm going to try something new, but end up with the same each time, Steak tartare followed by fillet beef. The Zinfandel wine is a beautiful accompaniment. Although a splurge, is definitely one not to miss in Shanghai.




  • The Brick is another favourite - I did say I had a lot of favourites! The food here is great, located in the heart of the city but still not too well-known it has a great atmosphere. At night, there is live jazz music for you to relax too whilst enjoying your venison and sipping on a sumptuous glass of red wine. Idyllic.
  • Hongmei Lu is the go to place for most expats. It's a pedestrian street located about 20/25 minutes from downtown. It'll cost you roughly 50 RMB to get there in a cab from the Bund, or even for the expats who live further afield (like I did) closer to the International Schools located near Hongqiao it's a similar price. Hongmei Lu is always bustling, there's a vast range of eateries, including German, Belgian, Spanish, Thai, Italian, Japanese - literally anything you can think of! I love it here - plus the German brewery has fantastic beer! 

Sorry for the terrible quality - taken on IPod

  • For those located downtown Xintiandi has some great places on offer. The Fountain does a lovely clam chowder in a bread bowl (~120RMB) and Brown Sugar is one of the best Jazz Clubs in town. On a Wednesday night, ladies get yourself down there for free flow Champagne from 9:30pm - 11pm and some fantastic live Jazz music going into the early hours of the morning!
  • A bit further down at Sinan Mansions there is another Fat Olive, plus the Boxing Cat Brewery and the Alchemist. There are some great pubs located around the French Concession, O'Malleys, Oscars, The Blarney Stone and The Camel to name a few.
  • Tianzifang is a well-hidden gem in Shanghai. From Dapuqiao subway station you can enter via a few street openings into a well concealed collection of interlocking courtyards homing some beautiful bars and shops. Bohemia is my favourite, it's lovely to sit upstairs and sip on a nice lychee martini, with a nice bit to eat in Kommune nearby, with their jam jar cocktails!
  • But no trip to Shanghai would be complete without a trip to Barbarossas. A Moroccan inspired gem hidden inside People's Park. I've only eaten here once and the food was good, but at 5pm the upstairs terrace and bar opens, and happy hour begins. Their extensive list of cocktails is incredible, the setting, the ambience and these delicious cocktails will definitely leave you begging for more. On my first trip to Shanghai, we discovered it by accident (this was in 2009) and it still remains a regular hotspot for my family - I urge you to try the banana and raspberry daiquiris!



My first blog

Hello, and welcome to my blog. 

I've never been one with words. So, let me start by introducing myself. I'm Sarah, I love photography, travelling and I'm a 'graduand' of mathematics from King's College London. 

I've been travelling since the age of six, when my parents bought me my first rucksack. From island hopping in Greece to more recent travels in Thailand, I consider myself to be rather fortunate when it comes to 'travelling the world'.

I'm currently waiting to graduate from uni (fingers crossed!) before the big decisions come. Although I'll be graduating with a BSc in Mathematics, it's not really where my heart lies. Photography has stolen my heart since I got my first camera, so I've decided to pursue a career in photography. 

I took two gaps years before uni, where I lived in Shanghai with my parents. I went to university there for a year and studied full time mandarin before eventually moving back to the UK. My parents have now moved to Thailand, so I'm looking forward to going over there for the summer and deciding the next step in my life (who wants to be prepared anyway? Spontaneity makes life fun!)

To be honest, I'd be quite content setting up a lemonade stand on the beach and enjoying life! I'm not built for the typical 9 to 5 job. I hate wearing shoes, or anything formal - you would have to tie me down to get me in a suit for work! I prefer to go with the flow and do what makes me happy - thankfully my parents are supportive of this, agreeing that I should do what makes me happy, not necessarily what makes the best money!

So, this blog is to start to get my photography out there, incorporating my travel stories too! So please enjoy, and leave comments!